Overview
Dogen went to the Song Dynasty, inherited the Zen style of devoting himself to “zazen” or seated Zen meditation, and gained enlightenment.
He returned to Japan at the age of 28 and began his activities based at Kenninji Temple in Kyoto. He preached and wrote, and began to attract attention, but was severely persecuted by the existing Buddhist forces.
At the behest of the samurai Hatano Yoshishige, one of his followers, Dogen left Kyoto and went to Echizen Province (current Fukui Prefecture), where Hatano’s domain was located.
Dogen changed the name of the temple, he founded in 1244, to Kichijozan Eiheiji in 1246. The name of the temple literally means “eternal peace”.
His teachings, which aim to unify the mind through zazen, are still applied to meditation and mindfulness in modern times, and the number of practitioners is increasing worldwide.
For example, it is a well-known fact that Steve Jobs, the founder of Apple, is a Zen enthusiast. He dreamed of visiting Eiheiji, the head temple of the Soto sect. It has been rated ２ stars by the Michelin Green Guide Japon.
On October 6, 2023 (October 5, 2023, U.S. time), the 13th anniversary of his death, an event was held in Eiheiji Town to pray for the well-being of the world from the sacred place of Zen.
Approach to Temple
When you pass through the temple town and enter the precincts, you will be enveloped in a solemn atmosphere. I often see photos of the temple in the fresh green season. However, I am glad that my first visit was during the autumn foliage season, which is my favorite time of the year.
Karamon Gate
The gate was once called the “Imperial Gate” and was opened when receiving emissaries from the Imperial Family. It’s decorated with the chrysanthemum flower crest of the Imperial Family’s coat of arms. It’s not accessible, but huge cedars tower beside the stone steps leading to the Karamon, making it one of the symbolic sights of the temple.
Sansho-kaku Hall
As part of a commemorative project for Zen Master Dogen’s 750th Great Death, this large hall was rebuilt over a two-year period from 1993. It is also known as the “Great Hall of Ceiling Paintings”, and the 230 paintings depicting flowers and birds are by 144 famous painters about 100 years ago.
Joyoden Hall
The hall is the tomb of Dogen and was renovated in 1881. It is a sacred place for the Soto sect of Japan. The main shrine at the back was renovated in 1981 and enshrines a statue of Dogen and his spiritual bones in the center.
Sanmon Gate
The gate is the oldest building of the temple, rebuilt in the mid-18th century. It’s the entrance to the temple, which monks pass through when they are officially initiated. On both sides of the façade are written the words, “From this point onwards is a dojo for strict monastic training, and only those who have a desire to seek are allowed to pass through the gate”.
Temple Town
In addition to vegetarian cuisine, sesame tofu, soba noodles, and other meals unique to the temple town of Eiheiji, you can also enjoy eating sweat dumplings and soft-serve ice cream. There are also souvenirs such as sweets and traditional crafts that you can buy only here.
Echizen Railway
The way to get to Eiheiji Temple by public transportation is by bus or train. In particular, from Fukui Station, there is a direct bus called the “Limited Express Eiheiji Liner” that runs every day. It only takes about 30 minutes to reach the temple town of Eiheiji, so it is recommended for those who are in a hurry. However, if you have time to spare, please enjoy an idyllic trip on the railway that runs through a region of Japan.
Eiheiji-guchi Station
If you take the Katsuyama Eiheiji Line from Fukui Station, you will arrive at this station in about 25 minutes. The old station building and the old substation near the station are registered as national tangible cultural properties and are perfect for taking photos of your trip. Although the station is the nearest to Eiheiji Temple, it takes another 15 minutes by bus to the temple town.
La poste
Another reason why I think you should take the train to Eiheiji Temple is because I would recommend you will have lunch at this French restaurant. You can fill your stomach with casual French cuisine full of fresh local ingredients at a reasonable price. It’s a very popular restaurant, so you need to make a reservation. The biggest problem at the moment is that it seems to be only on the phone, so communication skills may be required.
Basic information
| Access | About a 5-minute walk from the bus stop in the temple town of Eiheiji |
| Visiting Hours | 8:30 am ～ 4:30 pm |
| Admission Fees | Adults: 700 JPY Elementary and junior high school students: 300 JPY |
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